THE EARLY CHURCH IN SKYE

Arrangement of crosses at Kilmaluag on Raasay Moluag, the patron saint of Argyll as already mentioned, established a significant centre on the Isle of Raasay at Kilmaluag in Clachan. The original church was 46 feet in length, and surrounding it were eight standing crosses representing the evangelists at the four cardinal points of the compass with the more modest crosses of the four great prophets of the old covenant, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel and Daniel at the diagonals and in addition the central cross previously mentioned representing Christ. An offshoot of the Raasay monastery is to be found at Kilmaluag in Duntulm. In the burying ground at this place are the remains of a chapel, some 40 feet long. Close by is a well, Tobar Heibert. Moluag was of Irish/Pictish stock which could explain why he was so successful in spreading the gospel in Raasay and securing a foothold in North Skye, both Pictish centres.

There was once a chapel dedicated to St Nicolas (Santa Claus) in Flodigarry, and on Eilean Altairaig which forms a breakwater to Staffin Bay stood a small chapel dedicated to St. Tieros. In the hamlet of Breachry there was at one time a church and graveyard Cill Catriona of which no vestige remains. The stones of the church were used in building houses nearby and on their removal a baptismal font was discovered. Another cell or Caibeal stood only 200 yards away called Caibeal Sine while half a mile away lies the ruins of Cill Eoghain at Culnacnoc. William MacKenzie in his interesting book Skye Iochdar Trotternish mentions an age old custom of naming graveyards after the first internment. There is however a strong tradition in Kilmuir that at one time there was a nunnery by the north aspect of loch Calum Chille, possibly again a 13th Century establishment of the Benedictine order, so that Culnacnoc may have held an offshoot of nuns, explaining the female designations of the two graveyards mentioned.

The Bay of Uig, it is said, had at least three chapels surrounding it, one near the present Free Church, Cill Chonain, another by the Conan River, almost completely swept away by the great flood of last century and one or two on the Idrigill side of the village.

Portree Bay was anciently known as St. Columba's loch, and a small island towards Penifiler, with chapel ruins commemorates his name. Kiltaraglen - the old name of Portree, now located to the north of the town bears the name of Talorgan, a Culdee. They were an offshoot of the Irish Church, determined to sort out the excesses of the old church as it became more wealthy and worldly. Their principles were threefold, asceticism, puritanism and stricter monasticism. They seem to have performed the duties of secular canons arriving in Scotland about the year 800 A.D.

About the year 673 A.D. Maolrubha arrived in Applecross, or Appercrossan as it was then known, a purely Pictish name. Here he established a centre for his missionary work. In Skye he concentrated his evangelic activity on the south end, and even to this day his name is revered in Strath as the man who brought the tidings of salvation to the people there. At Ashaig Maol Carved stone on Scalpay off the Isle of Skye Ruaidh he founded his first church on the island, the foundations of which were discovered some years ago while a grave was being prepared. As in the north end the policy of placing chapels in the centres of population was continued. Pabay as the name implies has a burying ground, foundations of a chapel 20 feet in length and the ground-work of a small building called the "Alter". Scalpay has the remains of Tempull Frangaig, externally 26 feet long and with a narrow pillar 4 feet in height bearing an incised Latin Cross on its last face. There are two temples, one at Liveras in Broadford, and one at Borreraig near Torrin, and like Frangaig's probably belonging to a later age. The temple of Borreraig was dedicated to St. Congan and is still referred to as Tempull Chaoin. Congan it will be remembered was one of the two Irish/Pictish companions of Columba on his mission to the stronghold of King Brude at Inverness.

At Kilbride on the east side of Loch Slapin stand traces of a burying ground, and chapel, a rude pillar 8 feet in height, and St. Annats well. At Kilmaree on the west side of the loch there is a burial ground but no trace of the church which was dedicated to Maolrubha. Kilbride with its central situation and good land was at one time regarded as the "parish church" of Strath, and it is not clear why it should have been deserted for the rocky hillock of Cill a Chro. The site of this church is however one of great beauty and peace where only the occasional passing car breaks the silence. Here there is an overwhelming awareness of the passing of many generations all their lives completed, with their actions, interactions, all their emotions, joys, sadnesses, laughter and tears stilled - till the day breaks. One comes away with a stark realisation of the brevity of life and its inevitable mortality.

There is evidence that Cill a Chro was initially a Druidic centre. Two very ancient symbol stones standing together in the graveyard have been removed. They possibly represent an age when sun and fire were the main forces of worship and should be returned without delay to their previous siting, and placed under glass.

A church commemorating Maolrubha stood at Kilmoray Loch Eynort, and one commemorating St. Congan was sited in Glendale. At Kilmuir at the head of Loch Dunvegan there is a ruined church dedicated to Maolrubha, apparently ancient, though to what age it belongs is uncertain as parts of the original features and fabric have been altered and rebuilt.

Evidence that Maolrubha extended his mission into Trottemish is shown by the presence of his name on the ancient chapel at Sartle. We know that one of his muinntir was called Martin who probably founded the church of Kilmartin in Staffin and could have given his name to the well known family of Martin in this part of Trotternish.

Above: Loch Eynort Church
Right: Cross at Trumpan Church

By the shores of Ardmore Bay are the ruins of Trumpan Church, or Kilconan Church as it was once known. The name Trumpan is said to be from its resemblance to timpan, a form of harp. Today it is famous as the burial ground of Lady Grange.

Apart from Kilmore and Isle Ornsay Sleat has little in the way of association with the early church. One can only surmise that the advances of the Celtic missionaries were somehow resisted, possibly because of their Pictish associations.

During the last few years of the 8th Century an abrupt end to some two hundred years of relative peace on the island was drawn with the sudden attacks of the marauding Vikings. A darkness fell over the western isles with the church bearing the brunt of the violence. Many lives were lost and all records were destroyed, making it impossible to establish an accurate record of events. The repeated devastation of lona is mentioned in the Irish Annals but for centres further afield such as Skye a total silence descended.

Part 6 coming soon

Early Church in Skye - Part 1
Early Church in Skye - Part 2
Early Church in Skye - Part 3
Early Church in Skye - Part 4
Early Church in Skye - Part 5

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